KEMAJUAN MALAYSIA DALAM BIDANG PENTADBIRAN

Putrajaya

Putrajaya atau nama penuhnya Wilayah Persekutuan Putrajaya ialah pusat pentadbiran Kerajaan Persekutuan Malaysia yang menggantikan Kuala Lumpur pada 1999. Putrajaya, bandar raya pintar dalam taman terletak 25 kilometer di selatan Kuala Lumpur merupakan sebuah bandaraya futuristik yang menempatkan pusat pentadbiran Kerajaan Persekutuan.

Dari sebuah tempat terpencil yang dikenali dengan nama Prang Besar, kawasan ini melonjak membangun dengan nama Putrajaya mulai 12 Oktober 1994. Berbanding dengan Kuala Lumpur, sebuah bandar tinggalan penjajah, Putrajaya dibangunkan oleh anak bangsa sendiri dengan bercirikan budaya tempatan.

Mula dibina pada 16 April 1995, Putrajaya akan menggunakan aplikasi teknologi maklumat (IT). Dengan terbinanya Putrajaya, suatu hari nanti Kuala Lumpur, Putrajaya, dan Lapangan Terbang Antarabangsa Kuala Lumpur (KLIA) akan menjadi Bandar gergasi standing dengan Tokyo dan Yokohama di Jepun.

Untuk mencapai matlamat ini, Wetland Putrajaya telah dibina untuk menyingkirkan sedimen dan membersihkan aliran permukaan yang tercemar sebelum ia memasuki tasik. Sesuai dengan lokasinya di tengah-tengah bandaraya, Wetland Putrajaya menjadi titik penting dalam membawa rakyat untuk bersama-sama mencapai matlamat dari segi rekreasi, pendidikan dan penyelidikan.

Lokasinya yang berada ditengah-tengah Koridor Raya Multimedia, Putrajaya seluas 4,931 hektar ini dibangunkan dengan kos RM20.5 billion mengandungi Pusat Pentadbiran Kerajaan Persekutuan, Perumahan, Kemudahan komersial, kemudahan sosial dan kemudahan keagamaan.

Pada 10 Mei 1999, Kompleks Pejabat Perdana Menteri mula beroperasi di Putrajaya. Putrajaya menjadi penanda aras kepada pembangunan dan pentadbiran sesebuah bandar baik di peringkat dalam negara mahupun di peringkat antarabangsa.

KEMAJUAN MALAYSIA DALAM BIDANG BIOTEKNOLOGI

Pada akhir tahun 1970-an, bioteknologi malaysia mulai dikenal sebagai salah satu revolusi teknologi yang sangat menjanjikan pulangan lumayan di abad ke 20 ini.

Pentingnya bioteknologi malaysia secara strategik dan potensinya untuk menyumbang dalam bidang pertanian, pendidikan, kesihatan, sumber alam dan semulajadi mulai menjadi kenyataan yang semakin berkembang

Kejayaan bioteknologi malaysia Malaysia KEJAYAAN industri bioteknologi malaysia yang masih muda di Malaysia kini boleh dibanggakan. Ia adalah berkat kesungguhan pakar dan ahli sains tempatan dalam membangunkan bidang bioteknologi malaysia. Sokongan daripada kerajaan yang menyediakan infrastruktur teknologi maklumat dan komunikasi (ICT) yang menyeluruh turut membantu kejayaan itu.

Kebanyakan aktiviti penyelidikan dan pembangunan (P&P) dalam bidang bioteknologi malaysia kini dijalankan di sektor awam.

Untuk memperkenalkan dan menyelaraskan aktiviti bioteknologi malaysia di sektor awam maka National Biotechnology Directorate (BIOTEK) ditubuhkan.

Selain menjalankan dua tugas penting itu, BIOTEK turut berusaha mempromosikan penyertaan sektor awam dan swasta serta kesedaran awam terhadap kepentingan bioteknologi malaysia dalam masyarakat dunia.

Di peringkat nasional terdapat tujuh kategori bioteknologi malaysia yang menjadi tumpuan negara untuk dimajukan.

Tujuh kategori itu ialah biologi molekul, biologi tumbuhan, biologi haiwan, biologi perubatan, biologi alam sekitar dan industri, biofarmasi dan bioteknologi malaysia makanan.

BIOTEK turut menubuhkan National Biotechnology and Bioinformatics Network dan ia merupakan rangkaian ICT yang akan mempromosi perkongsian pengetahuan dan maklumat di kalangan komuniti bioteknologi malaysia.

Setakat hari ini, Malaysia berjaya menghasilkan sebanyak 10 produk bioteknologi malaysia dan dua daripadanya kini telah dikomersialkan iaitu produk `biological reagents' dan vaksin denggi.

Lapan produk bioteknologi malaysia lain yang dihasilkan itu ialah beras transgenic, anti kanser daripada mempisang, kit pengesan penyakit malaria, kit pengesan penyakit denggi, kit pengesan penyakit Japense Excephalitis, orkid wangi, tulips dan agen kawalan nyamuk Bacullis Spheras.

Kejayaan lain yang turut dicapai Malaysia ialah apabila dapat mempatenkan produk perkembangan bioplastik (development or bioplastic) dan pati Tongkat Ali dan Pegaga (extract of Tongkat Ali and Pegaga).

Kedua-dua produk yang dipatenkan itu adalah hasil kerjasama penyelidikan di antara Malaysia dan Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT).

Bagi memastikan aktiviti penyelidikan dan pembangunan (P&P) terpelihara hak ciptanya maka empat produk P&P bioteknologi malaysia yang lain turut dipatenkan.

Produk-produk itu ialah kit pengesan Brugia Malayi, gen dari virus denggi untuk vaksin, gen dari virus denggi untuk rawatan dan menentukan gen dari adenovirus.

Selain itu, pencapaian cemerlang Malaysia dalam bidang berkenaan ialah menghasilkan lima proses untuk bioteknologi malaysia.

Proses-proses itu ialah jus jernih (clarified juice), penyuburan tulip mengikut keperluan (cultivation of tulip under condition), prototaip kit pengesan penyakit pembawa tifoid (phototype kits for diagnosis of Typhoid carrier), perkembangan semburan vaksin untuk Pasteurella (development of spray vaccine for Pasteurella) dan menyuntik bakteria sebagai baja tiruan (bacterial innoculants as biofertiliser).

Menyedari kepentingan bidang bioteknologi malaysia dalam era ini maka beberapa langkah untuk memantapkan aktiviti bioteknologi malaysia di negara ini dilakukan dari semasa ke semasa. Justeru aktiviti P&P dalam bidang itu dipergiatkan dan setakat ini, sebanyak enam penemuan yang membanggakan berjaya ditemui.

Enam penemuan itu ialah empat gen berkaitan beras dan orkid dan dua gen berkaitan virus Japanese Encephalitis.

OUR BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY COUNTS ON US

Malaysia is a vibrant and thriving nation situated close to the equator within longitudes 1-7° North and 100-119° East, in the very heart of South-East Asia. It is a country of two land masses – Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo – which are 640km apart, separated by the South China Sea.

Peninsular Malaysia is located in the south of Asia, with Tanjung Piai in Johor having the distinction of being the continent’s southernmost tip. The peninsula extends from the Kra Isthmus in the north to the Straits of Johor in the south, and is divided into the east coast and west coast by the Main Mountain Range known as Banjaran Titiwangsa.
It shares a land border with Thailand in the north, while across the Straits of Johor in the south, just a short drive over the connecting Causeway, is the island nation of Singapore. Across the Straits of Malacca to the west lies the Indonesian island of Sumatra.
Sabah and Sarawak are located on the northern coast of the island of Borneo, their neighbours being Brunei, Indonesia and the Philippines. The terrain for these two states is rugged, with a series of mountain ranges encompassing the interior regions of the states.
The crown jewel is Mount Kinabalu in Sabah which, at an impressive height of 4,095.2m, is the highest peak in South-East Asia.
Common geographical features in Malaysia include coastal plains that rise to form dramatic limestone cliffs (that beg to be scaled), deep caverns (a haven for spelunkers), and idyllic waterfalls (perfect for family getaways).
The total land area of Malaysia is 330,434km², about the size of Japan. Peninsular Malaysia has an area of 131,573km², while Sabah and Sarawak cover 73,711km² and 124,449km² respectively.
The coastline for the peninsula extends nearly 4,830km around, while the coastline of Sarawak and Sabah is 2,100km – that’s a lot of beach to explore!
The States of Malaysia
Malaysia comprises 14 states including the three Federal Territories – Kuala Lumpur, Putrajaya and Labuan – which collectively form the 14th “state”.
The states in Peninsular Malaysia are Perlis, Kedah, Penang, Perak, Selangor, Negri Sembilan, Malacca, Johor, Pahang, Terengganu, Kelantan and the Federal Territories of Kuala Lumpur and Putrajaya; while Sabah and Sarawak make up the two remaining states. The Federal Territory of Labuan (area: 91km²) is located just off the west coast of Sabah.
The state of Sabah consists of five divisions, namely Tawau, Sandakan, Kudat, West Coast and Interior. Sarawak comprises 11 Divisions, namely Kuching, Sri Aman, Sibu, Miri, Sarikei, Limbang, Kapit, Bintulu, Kota Samarahan, Mukah and Betong.
The capital city of Malaysia is Kuala Lumpur, while Putrajaya is the seat of the Federal Government. Both Kuala Lumpur and Putrajaya are centrally located along the west coast of the peninsula.

Just like how the Eiffel Tower is identified with Paris, the Petronas Twin Towers will forever be identified with Kuala Lumpur.

Other major cities include George Town (Penang), Ipoh (Perak), Johor Baru (Johor), Kuching and Miri (Sarawak), Kota Kinabalu (Sabah), Alor Star (Kedah), Malacca town (Malacca), and Kuantan (Pahang).
Climate
Malaysia’s tropical climate is the result of its proximity to the Equator. The country enjoys a perpetual summer with a high humidity of about 80% all year round. It has an annual rainfall of between 2,032mm and 2,540mm.
The climate is affected by the north-east and south-west monsoons, tropical winds that alternate during the course of the year. The north-east monsoon prevails from November to March and brings rain to the east coast of the peninsula. The south-west monsoon is from mid-May to September.
To know your seasons in the sun when you visit Malaysia, you’ll have to plan your itinerary around the literal winds of change.
Temperatures range from 21-32° Celcius in the lowlands, but if you plan to escape to cooler climes for a while, there’s always the highlands, with Cameron Highlands and Genting Highlands (both in Pahang) being the two most famous.
Flora & Fauna
About four-fifths of Malaysia is covered by tropical rainforests, forming part of the Indo-Malayan rainforests which are the oldest in the world.
Because these jungles lay undisturbed for an estimated 130 million years, they form one of the most complex and richest ecosystems in the world, home to over 15,000 species of flowering plants and trees (9% of the world’s total), and 185,000 animal species (16% of the world’s total).

Rafflesia

Unique to the region is the world’s largest flower, the Rafflesia, and another record-breaker, the towering Tualang tree, the tallest of all tropical trees (up to 80m in height, and over 3m in girth).
A total of 286 species of mammals, 736 species of birds, 165 species of amphibians, 300 species of reptiles, 300 species of fresh water fishes and more than 100,000 species of insects have been recorded in the country.
Among the jungle dwellers are tigers, elephants, black and white tapirs, rhinoceros, leopards, honey bears, mousedeer, gibbons, and orangutans. Species of birds include the Malayan peacock-pheasant, the milky stork, the mountain serpent eagle, and of course, the majestic hornbill.
Malaysia’s rainforests continue to excite the scientific community which believes that some as-yet-undetermined plants or animals within may hold cures for human diseases.
Apart from the rainforests, Malaysia also has an abundance of mangrove forests found along its coastline, which act as excellent spawning grounds for marine life, including shellfish and prawns.
Aware of the importance of conservation, the Malaysian Government has set aside more than 12.5 million hectares as Permanent Forest Estate, with an additional 1.2 million hectares as National Parks, Game Reserves and Wildlife Sanctuaries. Sadly however, poaching remains a prevalent problem.
Malaysian seas also boast their own “rainforests” in the form of coral reefs that abound in the coastal areas. In fact, the country is known for its great diversity of coral species, and the accompanying marine life (giant sea turtles, dugong/sea cow, etc). This makes Malaysian seas immeasurably attractive for scuba divers.
No surprise, then, that Pulau Sipadan, Malaysia’s only oceanic island, has been voted time and again as one of the world’s best dive sites.
To protect these underwater ecosystems, the Goverment has gazetted 38 of its coral islands as protected areas.
Population & People
Malaysia is a multi-racial and multi-religious country with a population of 23.27 million (ref: Population and Housing Census 2000; approx. 25 million today). The bumiputras (or “sons of the soil”) which comprise the Malays, the indigenous people of Sabah and Sarawak, and the aboriginal groups of Peninsular Malaysia (the Orang Asli) form the majority (65.1%), with the Chinese at 26.0%, the Indians at 7.7%, and other ethnic groups (Eurasians, Europeans, etc) accounting for the rest.
In Sarawak, the predominant ethnic group is the Ibans, who account for 30.1% of the state’s total Malaysian citizens, followed by the Chinese (26.7%) and Malays (23.0%). In Sabah, the predominant ethnic group is the Kadazan Dusun (18.4%), followed by the Bajau (17.3%) and Malays (15.3%).
The distribution of population is somewhat uneven, with some 20 million residents or over 80% concentrated in Peninsular Malaysia. Sabah and Sarawak, considerably larger than the peninsula in land area, are relatively less densely populated.
Given the rich ethnic mix, it is hardly surprising that there is a great variety of faiths in Malaysia. What’s surprising is the relative peace and harmony that the followers of different creeds enjoy. This becomes even more of an eye-opener when one takes into consideration the devoutness of the adherents of the different faiths. It only takes a religious festival such as the Hari Raya Puasa, Thaipusam, Wesak or Christmas for one to notice how real and palpable faith is in this small nation.
Although Islam is the official religion, the Constitution guarantees the freedom to practise other religions. Each faith tends to identify with a specific ethnic group. For instance, almost all Malays in this country are Muslims (in fact, by constitutional definition, Malays are Muslims who practice Malay customs or adat, and culture), while Chinese are predominantly Buddhist and Taoist, and the Indians, Hindus.
Christianity is multi-ethnic, embracing segments of the Indian and Chinese population, as well as the indigenous people of Sabah and Sarawak.
According to the Population and Housing Census 2000 figures, approximately 60.4% of the population practises Islam; 19.2% Buddhism; 9.1% Christianity; 6.3% Hinduism, and 2.6% traditional Chinese religions. The remaining 2.4% is accounted for by other faiths, including Sikhism and Animism.
Language also mirrors the multi-racial mix with most Malaysians being able to speak two or three languages and/or dialects fluently.
Bahasa Malaysia (Malay language) is the official language but listen to a few conversations on the street and you’ll soon understand why the tourism advertisements use the Malaysia, Truly Asia tagline. (Stay a while longer, and you’ll be completely sold on it.)
English is widely spoken and is deemed the unofficial second language; extensively used in commerce and industry. On the streets, you’ll hear a peculiar form of the language, a colloquial English which is famously known as Manglish (a portmanteau of the word Malay and English), mostly spoken by the non-Malays.
Then of course, there’s a variety of Chinese and Indian dialects such as Hokkien, Cantonese, Hakka, Teochew, and Hainanese (Chinese), and Tamil, Telegu, Malayalam, Punjabi, Hindi, Gujarati and Urdu (Indian). Yes indeed, Malaysia is truly Asia.

JALUR GEMILANG

The Malaysian flag or Jalur Gemilang consists of 14 horizontal red and white stripes of equal width; a dark blue canton occupying the upper left quarter of the flag; and within the canton, a crescent, and a 14-pointed star.
The stripes represent the equal status in the federation of the 13 member states – namely Johor, Kedah, Kelantan, Malacca, Negri Sembilan, Pahang, Perak, Perlis, Sabah, Sarawak, Selangor, Penang and Terengganu – and the Federal Government, as represented by the Federal Territories of Kuala Lumpur, Putrajaya and Labuan.

The colours red and white symbolise courage and purity respectively.
The canton symbolises the unity of the people of Malaysia. The crescent is the symbol of Islam, the official religion of Malaysia; and the 14 points of the star signify the unity of the 13 states of the federation with the Federal Government. The colour yellow signifies the royal colour of the Rulers.
After 40 years without a name, the Malaysian flag was officially named Jalur Gemilang on the 40th anniversary of the country’s independence, Aug 31, 1997. Malaysia’s fourth Prime Minister Datuk Seri Dr Mahathir Mohamad made the announcement at midnight in conjunction with the National Day celebrations.
The name Jalur Gemilang is the Bahasa Malaysia term for “Stripes of Glory”.

BEAUTIFUL SONGKET ;)

Semek Sulaiman, 60, makes weaving songket look so effortless as her hands and feet deftly manoeuvre her loom. She patiently loops the bamboo rod through the threads on her loom, and works it methodically. It is painstaking work.
Semek stops weaving to talk to us, representatives  of the Star’s youth journalist programme BRATs (Bright Roving Annoying Teens).
“I started learning to weave when I was 14. There was no other work available then, and I learnt it from the other weavers,” recalled Semek who took two years to learn to work the songket loom.

Mohammed Che Hussein showing BRATs the three basic features of a songket.

Since then, she has been learning how to create songket patterns on the loom which requires experience and skill.  Semek points out that there are many patterns that she has yet to master even after 46 years of weaving songket.
Songket is a handwoven piece of fabric with embossed metallic silver or gold patterns.
No one is quite sure of its origins, but it is believed that the art of weaving songket was probably brought to Kelantan through inter-marriages between royal families in the Malay archipelago and Indo-China.
The intricately woven fabric has always been a symbol of wealth and prestige, and are worn for special occasions like weddings and formal functions.
Commoners also wear songket these days, but it is still a luxury item.
“There is a wide range of songket, with different quality and patterns. Some are made from cotton, and the more expensive ones are from silk.
“The more intricate the pattern, the longer it’ll take for a weaver to complete the piece. An intricate piece of songket could take up to six months to weave, but these are usually made to order,” explained the owner of Cik Minah Songket And Batik, Mohammed Che Hussein. His family has been making and selling songket for four generations.
The 58-year-old businessman said he doesn’t know how to weave songket, but he knows how to ascertain the quality of the handwoven fabric. Mohammed also taught us some basic features of a songket.
“Just like the batik, a piece of songket consists of a kepala, badan and kaki,” said Mohammed as he spreads out a piece of songket to point out its three different components.
The kepala, which literally translates to “head”, is a wide panel of motifs that runs through the width of the fabric.
Another set of motifs run across the length of the fabric, and is known as the kaki, or “feet”. The rest of the fabric is known as the badan, or “body”.
Songket is distinguished by its metallic embossed motifs, and they are mostly inspired by flora and fauna.
“The most popular motifs are traditional ones like the triangular pucuk rebung, or bamboo shoots. Other motifs include buah ladu (rhombus), bunga tanjung (bakula flower), and sisik kelah (fish scales).
“A simple songket with regular repeated motifs takes two weeks to complete, but an intricate design will take much longer. The price of songket depends on the material used, and the difficulty of its designs,” said Mohammed who modestly added that he wears the more simply woven pieces. The price of songket ranges from RM200 for a simple design and up to RM15,000 for a custom-made songket with intricate designs. He said that the most expensive songket in his shop is RM7,000. This is because of the thread count which is higher than the average piece of songket.
The biggest challenge that Mohammed faces in the songket business is the scarcity of talented weavers as few young people are interested to learn the art.
He tries to resolve this problem by hiring and training workers from the National Institute of Craft. Mohammed’s children are pursuing careers in different fields, but he has a nephew who is involved in managing the business.
“I hope that the Government will do something for the benefit of songket because it is a dying industry,” said Mohammed.

A GIFT FROM HEAVEN

Tunku Abdul Rahman once said that The Star was a gift from heaven. What he didn’t know was that we thought the same of him too. Here’s an exhibit that captures this special 16-year relationship.
Even with his arthritic limp and failing eyesight, our first Prime Minister Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra Al-Haj commanded respect.
Other octogenarians would have undoubtedly opted for a more leisurely pace. Not our Prince of Peace, however. There was still a lot to be done for the country, and he knew it.

Chatting with British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher in 1985.

After his retirement as Prime Minister in 1970, Tunku continued to be active in missionary work. Shortly after, he took up the post of secretary-general of the Islamic Secretariat in Jeddah. When he returned to Malaysia three years later, he seemed to have disappeared into obscurity but later, it was revealed that there was a concerted effort to keep him out of the media. Being the man he was, Tunku took it in his stride.
Fate had other plans for him, however. In his weekly column for The Star, he wrote, “Many more snubs I suffered in silence. Then the little Star fell on my lap and I remained silent no more.”
This happened in 1974, when The Star was still a small English language daily in Penang owned by Datuk Loh Boon Siew, who made his fortune importing Japanese cars and motorbikes.
Loh’s publishing business, however, wasn’t doing quite as well. The Star was a regional paper and its circulation did not extend to the mainland. Loh asked Tunku to acquire controlling interest in the paper and accept the appointment of chairman. Tunku was not a wealthy man but he couldn’t resist the challenge. He asked his old friend, former Sabah chief minister Tun Mustapha Harun for his financial support.
Tunku undertook to write feature articles under the title Looking Back in which he would give his personal account of the growth of Umno and their struggle for Independence. With a flick of his pen, Tunku rescued the fledgling brand and turned it into a national newspaper.
He would remain in the company until his death at the age of 87 on Dec 6, 1990.
As a tribute to this man and his remarkable accomplishments, the Tunku & The Star exhibit was launched at the Memorial Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra this week by Information, Communications and Culture Minister Datuk Seri Dr Rais Yatim. Members of the media and some of Tunku’s closest friends and relatives were present.
Star Publications (M) Sdn Bhd group managing director and chief executive officer, Datin Linda Ngiam, echoed the sentiments of her colleagues when she said, “To us at The Star, Tunku was not only the nation’s founding father; he was also our chairman and we take great pride in reminding people of that fact.”
Freedom writer
“It’s so overwhelming to see all his pictures in one place,” murmured Tunku’s great granddaughter, Sharyn Lisa Shufiyan, 25, as she scanned her surroundings.
“My generation grew up with only one leader (Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamad) while all the other former prime minsters have been reduced to taglines. Tunku has always been Bapa Kemerdekaan, but people need to know his story because it’s more relevant now than ever, especially with the current political situation.”

Tunku relaxing in Penang.

Granddaughter Tunku Rozani Putra, 50, agreed. She felt that the exhibit made up for the lack in Malaysian history that was taught in school.
“As I walked through it, I could feel the spirit of Independence, I find the phrase “a picture paints a thousand words’ very apt here. On a more personal note, I found Datin Linda’s speech very touching and had me reminiscing about Tok,” she said.
Tunku was, in Ngiam’s speech, no ordinary chairman.
“Tunku wrote all his articles; he did not dictate them. He once said that only two men could read his handwriting,” wrote Tan Sri Datuk Mubin Sheppard in his book Tunku: A Pictorial Biography, adding that these men were the ones who finalised, typed and forwarded his articles to The Star’s head office in Petaling Jaya.
The first article was published on Dec 16, 1974 and described Tunku’s first step as an amateur columnist. Subsequent columns appeared every Monday and their scope was soon extended to include his views and comments of current affairs.
“He was so closely identified with The Star that people referred to the newspaper as Suara Tunku Abdul Rahman,” said Ngiam.
“But Tunku was quick to remind everyone, his fans as well as the powerful personalities he had upset with his no-holds-barred comments, that The Star was not Suara Tunku Abdul Rahman but Suara Rakyat — The People’s Paper.”
According to a posthumous article in the Malaysian Business Magazine, Tunku hated sanctimoniousness or hypocrisy and, for an ex-Prime Minister, he ventured into areas where angels might fear to tread. His column — stated an article in Asiaweek magazine — “permits him to tell all and sundry just what he thinks is wrong with the country.” They dubbed him “the conscience of the nation.”
However, it soon became evident not everyone appreciated his frankness.
“It often gives government officials the jitters. On occasion, senior members of the administration have confessed to a dread of Mondays. Once, his critics even put it about that he should be detained under the Internal Security Act,” read Asiaweek.
The public, on the other hand, loved it.
“We had to print more copies of the newspaper on Monday than any other day,” remarked Ngiam. “He wrote beautifully. He didn’t use big, bombastic words but there were so many lessons you could garner just from one sentence.”
It was, incidentally, to his credit, that she joined The Star’s advertising department in 1985.

Tunku’s grandchildren and great grandchildren.

“My husband and I used to buy the newspaper every Monday just to read his columns. We followed it religiously. When I told my husband I wanted to work there, he was very keen on the idea because then we could get the Monday newspaper for free!” joked Ngiam, who had met Tunku on several occasions.
Dr Rais recounted a few nuggets of wisdom that Tunku had personally imparted to him.
“He once told me that when you start to write, you must start to accept criticism,” said Dr Rais. “I told him I was not a controversial writer. But he was.’’ Tunku replied that a time would come when one would be controversial in a time of crisis.”
Without fear or favour
Though it may seem hard to believe, The Star was a tabloid (complete with its own Page Three Girl!) before Tunku came along.
“People used to say, oh, you’re from the Penang paper, the mosquito paper — that’s what they called us. Nobody took us seriously,” Ngiam said.
All this changed with Tunku’s presence, however.
“We were different from other newspapers in terms of the way we approached our stories,” revealed Ngiam. “We always looked at things from a different angle. We published any criticisms that were directed against us. We tackled big cases such as corruption. It was all very anti-establishment.”

Dr Rais looking with interest at a lifesize replica of a frontpage story on Tunku’s passing.

By 1977, the circulation of The Star had shot up and more outstation bureaus were being set up in Malaysia. The MCA was roped in to provide new machinery and more capital. Tunku, meanwhile, retained his shares and continued to write with passion and insight.
Sharyn, however, believed her great grandfather felt that he was merely carrying out a responsibility (“He wrote in the interest of the people,” she said).
In 1980, the company made a clear profit of over RM1mil. In his column, Tunku said, “We were naturally happy because The Star glittered as a national newspaper, getting a wider range of readers. Our duty was, and still is, to disseminate news, but more than once, because of our enthusiasm, we annoyed high officials and were asked to show cause why The Star should not be closed down.”
It was just as Tunku had predicted — an emerging crisis. Nevertheless, he remained unapologetic through it all.
“I have tried to be helpful and constructive and I am happy to be told by many that it is taken in that spirit. If I appeared aggressive or damaging to some, that I can say is incidental — some people ask for it,” expressed Tunku.
It was obvious Tunku had a way with words. Many have his lines imprinted in their memories, and Ngiam is no exception.
“Unity in diversity . . . that was one of my favourite lines by him. It’s short yet very powerful,” she said.
Institute for Democracy and Affairs (IDEAS) co-founder Tunku Zain Al-Abidin Tuanku Muhriz, 26, said, “The exhibition highlights some of his best quotes. I especially liked: ‘It is freedom for the Malayan people, and once this torch of freedom is lit, let us hold it up high so that all around us will glow with radiant happiness’. It is quotes like this which remind us why we are inspired by him.’’
However, no one grasped the importance of Tunku’s quotes more than Sharyn, who said, “All his quotes about harmony and unity — we need to preserve their meaning. They shouldn’t be thrown around mindlessly. The current leaders would have to start walking the talk if they want to use these quotes. Things would have to improve. Otherwise, Tunku’s words would turn into clichés.”
In his speech, Dr Rais said, “The UK’s Daily Telegraph once said that no one would supercede the contributions of this man to this country. I agree with that.”
Ngiam, who counted the days since Tunku’s departure (20 years and nine days), spoke candidly about how many at The Star appreciated his contributions and missed him.
“The Star and many other media covered the funeral from Kuala Lumpur to Alor Setar where he was finally laid to rest,” she said.
“Every newspaper carried pages of stories on Tunku as a patriot, a leader, a friend and a family man. We had something extra. He was our beloved chairman. We will cherish the precious time we had with Tunku and will not forget his sacrifices and achievements.

SOME TRADITIONAL LOCAL FOOD....

Puchong Seven serves a pretty decent silver carp dish.

House special: The Shiong Thong Soong Yee Thau.

The Soong Yee (silver carp) or genus Hypophthalmichthys molitrix is a freshwater fish that originates from China.
Here in Malaysia, it’s called ikan Tongsan and was introduced by the migrant Chinese at the turn of the century as a food fish.
At the dining tables here, the Soong Yee is considered a prized table fish as there are ready and willing parties to consume them.
Having said that, the irony is that in some parts of North America, the carp is considered an invasive species that is posing a threat to the waterways there.
It’s such a big fuss there and recently, I saw a documentary on Astro’s History channel where schools of silver carp that were spooked by outboard engines made a leap into passing boats, making them an easy catch.
The segment showed carp darting out of the water like missiles and “bombarding” small boats until the hulls were filled to the brim.
Rather than eating them, the carps were treated like trash and processed into fertiliser.
I guess the Americans favour their Cajun-grilled catfish and alligators as the carp had no place on the dining table.
To the uninitiated, the carp is a “smelly” fish.
Its blood stream is rich in the blue-green algae that gives it a “muddy” aftertaste.
The flipside is that what is trash to the Americans, is well-loved in this part of the world.
In poorer Asian countries, the silver carp is a cheap staple diet that is also threatened by overfishing and destruction of habitat.
Eating the carp itself is an art.
It has fine bones running across its lateral line and it takes plenty of patience to savour the carp.
The Malays call it ikan Tongsan, kap sisik halus and kap kepala besar. It’s a popular freshwater fish served in many restaurants here in the Klang Valley.
On where to find a decent makan place that serves the Soong Yee, one such outlet is restoran Puchong Seven Kari Kepala Ikan in Bandar Puteri, Puchong, Selangor.
Here, the house dish is the Shiong Thong Soong Yee Thau (steamed silver carp’s head in superior broth) and the regular clientele who frequent this makan place would order it without hesitation.
So, how does it fare?
I would say that since the dish is prepared fresh, you can taste the fine texture of the Soong Yee’s flesh and modern aquaculture techniques in harvesting the carp reduces its muddy aftertaste.

Popular spot: Puchong Seven in Bandar Puteri is well-known for its steamed carp head and claypot curry garoupa.

And since this is a Shiong Thong styled steamed dish, cooks can go overboard by adding too much Mei Cheeng (monosodium glutamate) to enhance its flavour.
This is the downside if you develop hypersensitivity to MSG, but the tradeoff at Puchong Seven is the RM28 pricetag for the dish.
As for the quality of the food served, restoran Seven’s Soong Yee Thau is decent enough to clock in a 5.5 out of 10 on the Samo-scale.
Other than the hallmark steamed fish head dish, this makan place is also known for its meat dishes but there are simply too many to name.
Noteworthy, is the claypot Garoupa fish head curry. As far as taste and quality is concerned, you can’t go wrong with this saltwater fish.
The makan place is also linked to Restoran Bintang Kari Kepala Ikan in Kinrara off Jalan Puchong.
To get there, the GPS coordinates are: N 03 01 394, E 101 36 959.

Get off the beaten track next time you’re travelling because you never know what you’ll stumble upon, especially in a country like ours where superstition is alive and flourishing.
Belief — the word may be simple but its implication is tremendous.
Belief has been shaping mankind’s existence since the dawn of time, transforming, compelling and sometimes sparking off hysteria even with the advent of rationalism and science.
The Malaysian enthusiasm for folklore and superstition is well and alive in this new century. For many of us, belief is a way of life. Its appeal is undeniable: Some beliefs may appear to be mumbo jumbo to others but they are, in fact, pearls of wisdom passed down by our forefathers, and so they have to be true.
It’s as simple as that.

Tasik Dayang Bunting in Langkawi is another lake believed to have magical powers for women who want a baby.

This is perhaps what has prompted hundreds of sane, forward-thinking women to jump into the waters of Tasik Dayang Bunting in the past several decades in the belief that the magical properties of its water will somehow, miraculously, cure them of infertility.
Many who have taken the plunge have also claimed that it works, thereby adding to the allure of the place and making the lake one of the hottest tourist destinations in Langkawi despite its remote location.
However, Tasik Dayang Bunting is merely the tip of the superstition iceberg, and it also happens to be one of the most commercialised. As any avid traveller on home soil will tell you, there are many other equally fascinating spots in Malaysia, some of which are still hidden under a cloak of secrecy but continue to draw as many pilgrims to them as the holy site of Lourdes in France.
Here are a few of these places and the people who swear by them.
Tasik Chini, Pahang

The mystical lotus in Tasik Chini blooms between June and September.

Deep within the murky depths of this beautiful lake lie fantastic legends that speak of sorcery, dragons and even a lost, sunken city.
Scientists are drawn to this beautiful lake in their quest to verify theories that say an Atlantis-like, Khmer city once existed in the vicinity. The lake also attracts a different group of visitors from June to September every year when the sacred lotus flower, Nelumbo nucifera, starts to bloom.
During this time, as a large part of the lake is dappled in pretty pink and white, the boatmen will row besotted couples to these flowers. But instead of telling them to take a dip here à la Tasik Dayang Bunting, these boatmen will pluck a lotus from the lake, and fashion it into a funky-looking hat and present it to the woman.
Word has it that she will become pregnant after wearing it for some time.
A 30-year-old lady, who only wants to be known as Putri, says she went to Tasik Chini after hearing of the magical lotus flowers.
“For the longest time, I had tried for a baby but in vain. So I went to this lake, and the boatman rowed my husband and I around, looking for the biggest and prettiest flower we could find. When we found it, he made a hat out of it and told me to wear it.
“I knew I looked quite silly, but I did it because I wanted a child so badly. Praise be to God, I became pregnant several months later,” she says.
And there you have it.
Tatau, Sarawak
Industrious 4D punters are known to traverse far and wide to lay their hands on winning numbers, and if an inanimate rock has mysterious powers that can grant them such a number, then to the rock they will flock.
Batu Katak, situated between the Selangau and Bintulu road in Sarawak, is one such site. This massive rock gets its moniker from its uncanny resemblance to a frog.
Once the villagers tried to blow it up to make way for development, but the rock defied this explosive effort. Because of its stubborn disposition, Batu Katak is believed to be magical, and people come from all over to scribble down their lottery numbers in multi-coloured inks.
One lucky winner apparently used some of his winnings to build a shed as a gesture of gratitude so that the rock could sit comfortably out of the glare of the sun.

A lottery punter rubbing Batu Katak in Sarawak for luck.

Entrepreneur Jennifer Teh, 51, hasn’t heard of Batu Katak but she did get to meets its elephantine cousin in Thailand when she was holidaying there with her husband.
“I was initially very annoyed at my husband and his friends who had decided to take a little detour to this ‘elephant rock’, which is supposedly famous for revealing lottery numbers when you rub it with a cloth. When I got there, I was terribly amused to see everyone rubbing this poor rock furiously as if their lives depended on it!
“My husband and I joined in just for the heck of it, and I was laughing the entire time,” she recalls.
“Out of nowhere, however, a number materialised on the rock, and I was shocked into silence. I continued rubbing and, one by one, the numbers kept appearing. Needless to say, I bought the combination as soon as I got home to KL, and it came out first prize!”
Jasin, Malacca
The historic city of Malacca has a number of ancient wells, some of which date back hundreds of years. These places, like the Hang Tuah Well, are said to contain magical water that can bring good luck to whoever who drinks from them.
Jhi Yang Tang Well, so named because it has eight corners, is one such well.
It was once a major attraction to the Chinese, especially the local and Singaporean businessmen who would travel in droves to the Thai temple where it is located.
The water is said to be miraculous, and is therefore bottled for various reasons like safety, health and fortune.
The only catch is that you must closely observe several feng shui rules for it to work.
B.C. Lau, 61, a retiree, was a frequent traveller to the well before the place fell into disrepair.
“My driver brought me there one weekend. We drew the water clockwise, and used it to clean my car’s number plate. However, I made sure that the driver did it methodically from left to right, or else the luck would all be washed away. A few days later, I bought the number and won several thousand ringgit.
“To give thanks, I returned to the place with my wife, who also bathed in the waters for blessing. Unfortunately, all the good feng shui is now gone from the place,” he sighs.
As such, the businessmen have shifted their attention elsewhere and currently flock to a place called Auyun Hill Resort in Durian Tunggal, which apparently has not one, but five, wells.
Tumpat, Kelantan
There is a small graveyard called Kubur Datuk in Tumpat, Kelantan, where villagers are said to convene day and night if they are desperate for their wishes to be fulfilled.
This place was especially popular in the 1950s and 60s, when the place was packed with pilgrims. It is said that the Datuk, the residing spirit, was a powerful medicine man when he was alive, and that this power lived on after his death.
All you have to do here is to pay the caretaker a token of appreciation to gain entry. Then you present your offering, usually nasi kunyit and roast chicken, whereupon you melepas nazar, or pledge the good deed you would carry out should your wish be granted.
Subsequently, you’ll be instructed to bathe in the holy water of a well located nearby, in order to seal the pact. Many people have attested to its effectiveness. One such person is Pak Gita, 60, vice president of the Kelantan Tourist Association, who reveals that his mother once brought him there when he was sick.
“I was very young, so I can’t remember much of it. But I know that like most of the kampung folk at the time, my mother was convinced that the place was supernatural, although subscribing to such a belief is strictly forbidden by Islam,” he says.
“Now the grave still exists, but it isn’t as popular as before.”
Tambun, Ipoh
Mystery and magic surround the old, dilapidated wooden chair that sits in the dazzling, cavernous interior of the hallowed Gua Datok, which is now part of the Lost World Of Tambun Theme Park. The chair is supposed to have been left there by Datoh Panglima Ngah Ghafar, dubbed the Lord of Kinta, in the 1800s.

The Gua Datok prayer site and chair of the Lord of Kinta. — ONG SOON HIN/The Star, LADA, DUNSTAND PILANG & WONG FOT JAW

Historians believe that Datoh Panglima used the chair when he came to the cave to pray and meditate. Coincidentally, the chair was placed facing the kiblat, the direction Muslims face when praying. Scattered around it are ritualistic relics like porcelain pots, ladder, parang, axe, dagger and joss stick, proof-positive that the Chinese also used this place to seek blessings from a higher power, perhaps as recent as 30 years ago.
There is also a porcelain pot strategically positioned in such a way that crystal clear water would flow directly down into it from the upper chamber of the cave. According to the locals, this water is considered holy and is used for drinking or washing one’s face.
Another story says that the cave is conducive for both Malay and Chinese martial art devotees who seek strength and wisdom.
Shahrul Fariz, 29, senior marketing executive of the Lost World, says he had a strange experience the last time he gave guests a tour of the caves.
“Someone in our group moved a metal dagger from the ground. Just as he did it, we heard a loud clanging sound within the recesses of the cave, and the frightened fellow quickly put the weapon back where he found it. Everyone was creeped out, and now we advise guests to leave these things alone

Bona fide heritage guides

If historical buildings, churches, forts and temples could talk, they would spin one heck of a story. Unfortunately, they can’t. So most of us still need well-informed and articulate guides to wax lyrical as we hop into the time machine.
Yet heritage tour is what Malacca sorely lacks.
Despite its rich history and kaleidoscopic cultures, the city doesn’t “sell” its historic walks — there are no designated historical routes, heritage maps or specially trained guides who can cater to heritage aficionados or history buffs.
“I would say about 30% of our tour guides (out of 123 registered guides in Malacca), especially the senior guides, can conduct heritage tours,” claims Zamzam Kassim, the chairman of Malacca Historic City Tourist Guides Association (MHCTGA). In 2010, tourist arrivals in Malacca topped 10.4 million. “But I think we do need to groom ‘storytellers’ who can present Malacca’s stories and run a well designed and interesting walking tour.”
Of course, most guides are good at rattling off historical facts, naming people and places but at times the information is sketchy, distorted and lacks a storyline.
The rare exception is Penang’s popular walking tours run by Penang Heritage Trust (PHT). Through their own initiative, PHT designed thematic walking tours and trained city guides to interpret George Town’s colourful heritage.
“We must admit that licensed tourist guides in our country have been interpreting heritage through different angles,” says Jimmy Leong Wie Kong, the president of Malaysian Tourist Guides Council (MTGC). But the good news is, certified heritage guides will be roaming the streets of Malacca and George Town as early as September 2011 if the Ministry of Tourism (Motour) has its way.
Motour is scheduled to launch the pilot Cultural Heritage Specialist Guides (CHSG) course in July this year. Working closely with government agencies and NGOs including the National Heritage Department, PHT, Badan Warisan Malaysia, MTGC and Association of Tourism Training Institute Malaysia (ATTIM), the Ministry is drawing up training modules for the two-week course. The course will be held in Malacca and George Town, the two cities listed under Unesco World Heritage sites. “Based on Unesco guidelines, the course will train guides to do heritage interpretation, deliver accurate information on the World Cultural Heritage site, promote conservation and involve the local communities,” explains Ivin Mercy of Motour’s Industry Development Division. “A confirmed, licensed tourist guide, with at least two years of guiding experience, is eligible to enrol for the course.”
“With the CHSG training programme, successful participants should be armed with the knowledge and skills to plan heritage walks,” adds Leong. “Planning and designating routes for heritage trails should be done by the local tourist associations who can work with other tourism-related NGOs such as Badan Warisan.”

Vanishing heritage immortalised in Potraits of Penang: Little India.

In 1979, Dr Ooi Cheng Ghee was captivated with the serenity of Penang’s Little India in George Town that he spent a year after that taking over 4,000 photographs of the place.
Armed with his trusted Leica camera, Dr Ooi walked the streets in the area during weekends and also sometimes after work.

Charm of yesteryear: Dr Ooi showing his book 'Portraits of Penang: Little India'.

“It was like no other place in Penang and Malaysia. I saw things which I thought never existed in the country.
“The immigrants from India were living their own way of life. They brought in their trades and traditions from their country,” he said during a press conference recently.
The 66-year-old Penangite, who is a practising doctor, said photography was his outlet for self-expression while medicine was his first love.
After 32 years, a total of 160 black and white photographs from Dr Ooi’s collection are featured in a hardcover book entitled ‘Portraits of Penang: Little India’ and published by Areca Books.

Thoughts: Always on my Mind.

The book showcases the colourful street life of a Little India that once existed.
There are images of betel nut industry workers, collectors, vendors, traders and children all going about their daily routines — working, playing, worshipping or just relaxing.
Dr Ooi said the images reflected a historical moment when Penang’s free port status had been lost and the Indian enclave was undergoing a difficult transition.
“I thought that it was time to let people know about the Little India that once existed,” he said.
The photographs show the trades and customs that were once unique but now forgotten,” he said, adding that it took him five years to compile the book.
He recalled that the people on the streets of Little India in 1979 were used to seeing him on a regular basis.
“The roads were almost empty then with only a few bicycles.
“I could stand in the middle of the road snapping pictures and nobody would bother me. It was a very different time,” Dr Ooi said.
Penang Heritage Trust president Khoo Salma Nasution said the photographs were a reminder of a vanishing heritage.
The book is priced at RM100 and is available in bookstores nationwide.

An exhibition featuring Dr Ooi’s photographs of Little India will run until May 31 at Galeri Seni Mutiara at the Whiteaways Arcade on Beach Street from 11am to 6pm daily. Admission is free.

The exhibition and book are sponsored by Think City as part of its Penang Story proje

The hidden realm of Ulu Muda astounds a group of nature-lovers.
We must go. The place is really wild. People have seen tigers there!” exclaimed Lai Choy one evening in May, when we were on a birding trip at Taman Negara Merapoh and were mulling over where to go next.
The mere mention of the word “tiger” had us sold on the idea. So one sunny morning in July, the six of us – Lai Choy, Tuck Kong, LK, Mei, Captain and myself – found ourselves loading our backpacks into three narrow sampan on the shore of Muda Lake near Baling, Kedah.

Sight to behold: Wearing of water on limestone has created impressive formations in Gua Labua, in Ulu Muda forest. — Photos by CHOU K.S.

Our destination was Ulu Muda forest, and leading us into the wilderness tucked away in the north-eastern corner of the state was eco-guide Hymeir Kamarudin. Some six hours earlier, we had set off from Kuala Lumpur for the drive which took us along the North-South Expressway to Gurun, then Sik, Gulai and finally, the lake.
The last leg of the journey was a scenic one as we passed idyllic kampung with plenty of durian and rambutan stalls. Just as our boats set off, a group of sea otters showed up on the lake shore – a promising sign of better things to come, we all declared.
Traversing the lake, we passed forlorn-looking tree trunks that emerge from the depths, the only hint that a forest once sprawled beneath the water body which was formed when Muda River was dammed in 1969 for the irrigation of paddy fields.

A relaxing moment beside Muda River.

The impoundment of the dam, coupled with past logging, have altered the natural landscape here. Nowhere is this more evident than along Muda River as there is none of the huge trees that hang over the river – the type of riverine scenery typical of untouched areas such as seen in Taman Negara, Pahang.
Nevertheless, wild dwellers are still there. Rounding a bend of the river, we startled a herd of wild boars and their striped juveniles. They promptly disappeared into thick foliage. Monitor lizards lumbered on muddy banks while birds darted past us, moving too fast for us to identify them. Trampled riverbanks marked spots where elephants had crossed the stream.
At times, the river turned shallow and boatman Emi had to slowly manoeuvre the boat, so it was almost two hours before we reached Earth Lodge in Kuala Labua. Completed only in April, the state government-built chalets have back balconies that open into the forest. Towering trees, fortunately not felled during the construction, shade the area and provide wild habitat.

Hidden treasure: Lush greenery surrounds the chalets of Earth Lodge in Ulu Muda forest.

From the steps of our chalets, we saw birds (monarch, woodpecker and drongo) and the black bearded gliding lizard flit from tree to tree. Hanging out by the riverside in the evening, we spotted the first of what would be many, many sightings of Ulu Muda’s renowned flocks of plain-pouched hornbills. There were some 15 of them, feeding on juicy-looking round fruits (probably figs) on a tree on the opposite bank.
The hornbills were to become the staple of our trip. They showed up every morning and evening, in flocks of threes to 20s. Most times, we saw them fly overhead in V-formation. Ulu Muda is one of only two known sites (the other is Belum-Temenggor forest) where the species gather in huge numbers.
Several forest reserves collectively make up the 160,000ha Ulu Muda forest which stretches into the Malaysian-Thai border.

Forest giants amaze a trekker in Ulu Muda forest.

The ecological wealth of Ulu Muda has long been known. It was proposed as a wildlife reserve and national park as early as the 1960s and 70s. These failed to materialise, and instead, parts of the forest were logged.
In 2002, Kedah wanted to helicopter-log the area but shelved the plan following public outcry.
In 2009, the state government revealed plans for a 27,196ha Ulu Muda state park but this has yet to happen.
Caving delights
The next morning, we awoke to a symphony of forest calls, the loudest of which came from the gibbons. Ulu Muda harbours the agile and white-handed gibbons but these shy primates remain elusive and are not commonly sighted. That morning, we headed into the jungle towards Labua Caves, suitably garbed in leech socks. The blood-suckers literally smothered the trail!
We deduced that the leeches were drawn to the smell of cow hide – how else would you explain why, 10 minutes into the trek, Tuck Kong, who wore leather boat shoes instead of trekking boots, already had some 10 wrigglies crowding around his ankles?
The trail initially followed an old logging road. Ulu Muda was logged between the 1960s and 80s but the Communist insurgency prevented loggers from advancing deeper into the forest. The years of isolation have allowed logged areas to regenerate, and the small trees ignored by chainsaws have since matured into soaring giants. We could not resist stopping for photographs each time we came across a huge buttress. So it was well over two hours later before we reached the caves.
Hymeir, a speleologist who has explored caves for over 20 years, had earlier told us that Gua Labua was among the best he had ever seen, and he did not lie. Where the cliff wall had caved in, there were skylights that brought the sun into hidden chambers, creating dramatic cave scenes. We gawked and gaped at impressive cave formations shaped over millions of years.

A wild nutmeg fruit found in Ulu Muda forest.

Back on the trail later, we heard the calls of the crested argus pheasant ring through the forest, and soon enough, we reached its “dancing ground” right in the middle of the path. To attract the female, the male would clear a spot of all debris to create a “stage” for it to perform by way of displaying its gorgeous plumage. A few dropped feathers hint at the show we had just missed.
Calls of the banded pitta joined the cacophony of forest sounds as we made out way back to our chalets. To nurse our tired limbs, we soaked ourselves in the “jungle jacuzzi” of Sungai Labua which flows just beside the lodge, letting the gurgling ice-cold water massage our aches away.
Night stake-out
That night, three of us opted to spend the night in the hide beside the salt lick. Sira Air Hangat is a rare combination of a hot spring and a salt lick. As hot water bubbles up from the ground, it fills the air with steam. We bravely waded into the stream – the water was scalding hot!
Dusk and dawn are the best times to see animals at salt licks. Unfortunately, it was already dark when we reached the hide; the animals would have gotten their dose of much-needed soil minerals and left. With little chance of seeing animals, Captain and I decided to sleep.

A tail-less whip scorpion in Labua Cave.

Lai Choy decided to keep vigil – well, kind of. He woke up every half hour or so to scan the salt lick with his torch. But he spotted nothing. At dawn, we scrutinised the area from our high perch but still saw nothing. When we made our way pass the salt lick to reach our boat, we saw the tracks of frequent visitors – tapirs, deer, pigs and elephants. Some prints looked fresh. Guess we were heavy sleepers.
Next up was a shot at “tubing”. The riverine vegetation grew more dense, and the river a lot clearer, the further upriver we went. We had entered pristine territory which had eluded loggers. We got down to push the boat several times when it became grounded in shallow waters. Hymeir said the river used to be deeper, with pebbled beds. Now, it had a sandy bottom which he suspected was caused by upstream land-clearing.
The tubing was good fun. Wedged inside over-sized inner tubes of tyres, we slowly floated downriver. The two rapids we passed created some excitement. Otters, monitor lizards, hornbills, pigeons, a falconet, hill mynahs and doves kept us company during the slow cruise.
Arriving at the lodge, a familiar, welcoming scent greeted us – durian! LK, the undisputed durian queen amongst us, had that morning shrewdly given RM50 to the boatman who was sending three other visitors back to the jetty, asking him to buy some durian. And so it was durian for dessert for the next three meals.

The well-camouflaged black bearded gliding lizard.

On our last evening at Ulu Muda, we parked ourselves on boats moored by the riverbank – “You must build a viewing platform here,” we told Hymeir – to wait for hornbills.
The birds did not disappoint us. Across the river, dusky leaf monkeys jumped about in bamboo clumps, and beside us, butterflies and dragonflies danced among the reeds. One red-and-black broadbill showed up in the canopy above. As dusk crept in, the now-familiar jungle orchestra filled the air. It was a tranquil forest moment which I secretly wished would go on forever.
So, never mind that there was no tiger to be sighted (seriously, does anyone know of anyone who has seen, or even heard, a tiger in the forest?). Just being in the pristine wilderness left us with smiles as we drove away from Muda Lake the next morning. We told ourselves that we would be back – same time next year, of course, to coincide with the durian season.